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若敏:土耳其闺蜜行(1)到达伊斯坦布尔

《土耳其闺蜜行(1):到达伊斯坦布尔 》

若敏

在一次校友聚会上,一位旅游达人跟我提起了土耳其,他说,“你一定要去土耳其看看,很奇特的地方,会给你带来惊喜。”

后来,土耳其一直不太稳定,我也不敢轻举妄动。直到2015年,觉得局势平和一点。准备坐邮轮去地中海。

订地中海邮轮航线的时候,看到有一艘邮轮,起点是土耳其的伊斯坦布尔,停2天,就毫不犹豫地订下了。怕当地需要用现金,在美国银行换了不少土耳其的里拉。还做了一下攻略,将两天的行程安排得满满的,然而计划赶不上变化,临出发前,邮轮公司发来了警告,告知土耳其伊斯坦布尔有恐怖活动的危险,让大家从机场一出来,就直接坐车到码头上船,第二天的停靠取消了。

我们在网上办理了土耳其签证,到达土耳其机场后,搭上出租车前往邮轮码头。下车时,我们各自负责自己的箱子和背包。当准备拿护照进码头时,Jack突然发现装着护照和钱包的摄影包,被遗失在出租车的前座下面,而我们也没有要出租车的收据,还给了他不少小费。这时,出租车已经开走,Jack以百米冲刺的速度跑了出去。我们的心都悬起来了。

当我们终于看到Jack背着包走回来的时候,一颗心才放下。原来,出租车已经开出去了一段路,恰好遇到红绿灯,才让Jack追上,司机是个善良的人,把车停到了路边,Jack才把摄影包取回,否则,这次邮轮行,将会出现什么样的悲剧,不敢想象。也算是有惊无险了。

(2015年在邮轮上,背景是伊斯坦布尔)

来到邮轮上,丰富的午餐,让心慢慢静了下来。走到甲板上,可以远眺到大教堂的远景,近在咫尺,却又难以到达。当晚,邮轮直接离开伊斯坦布尔,望着渐渐远去的清真寺和大教堂,不禁叹了一口气。

2019年,再次踏上土耳其。我们一行六位姐妹,从亚特兰大直飞阿姆斯特丹,再转机伊斯坦布尔。带着兴奋和快乐的心情,Nancy 将是我的roommate,玲和青也是认识的好友,黄姐相识于Emory 的中文学校,已经多年未见。兰,第一次见面,才知道原来就住在附近。

11/11日中午,儿子开车送我去亚特兰大国际机场,我是第一个到达的,黄姐随后到达,另外几位姐妹也陆续到达。飞机在下午5:50分准时起飞,周二上午8:30到达阿姆斯特丹机场。

阿姆斯特丹机场路过多次,一般都是来去匆匆,这次有三个多小时的转机时间,我们四处走走。机场很大,也很现代,令人惊奇的是机场博物馆,有几幅油画,令我驻足,静下心来欣赏。

机场商店的郁金香以各种方式开放,有灯具,有各种装饰品,还有塑料花。已经不是郁金香的季节,所以只能看到假花。

机场里有一个奇特的钟,画面里是一位拿着画笔的人,不停地画着秒针,非常有创意。

11点30飞机起飞,下午3:55 到达伊斯坦布尔新国际机场。我四年前到达的是老机场。据说国际航班都转到了新机场。

出关非常顺利。拿到行李后,看到迎接我们的Gate-1 的工作人员。这趟飞机还遇到来自新泽西和纽约的人,他们也是去Gate-1。一共有两辆车来接我们,这时才知道,这次有两个team走一样的路线。我们在Green team 。而那些人在Orange Team.

 

天已经黑下来了,这一天是满月,又大又亮,我们满心欢喜,往旅馆进发。夜幕下的土耳其格外美丽,月亮刚刚升起,透着皎洁的黄色,巨大的仿佛能触手可及,想拍摄,因为车速快都没拍成,留在心底就好。进入市区就有些堵车,一座座清真寺在眼前闪过。路上有各式的商店和餐厅,街上的行人脚步匆匆。从市区出来的道路更加堵塞,那些想回家的人,一定归心似箭。

酒店在一个临海的小巷子里,【Novotel Istanbul Bosphorus 】酒店,现代简洁的风格,导游FARUK在酒店大厅迎接我们。我和Nancy来到房间,里面清爽干净,让人舒适。

接着是全团开会的时间,除了一人,因为芝加哥大雪,无法按时到达,其他团员都已经到了。导游做了自我介绍,他出生在德国,并在德国长大,后来回到土耳其,从事导游工作25年。FARUK 的英文极好,加上略带磁性的嗓音,悦耳动听,他简单地介绍了行程安排以及注意事项。他提到我们是Green Team,还有一个是OrangeTeam,虽然行程相同,但是,住的酒店常常不在一个地方,大家一定不要上错车。后来,才知道Orange Team的导游,是他的妻子,夫妻一起带团,也很有趣。随后,团里的人都进行了自我介绍,有夫妻同行,也有像我们一样朋友一起出行,还有好几位单身,大部分来自美国,有两位来自加拿大温哥华。

由于有团员没到,欢迎晚宴改到第二天举行。我们按照导游的介绍,出门看伊斯坦布尔的夜景,并去品尝当地的海鲜。出门右拐,就进入热闹非常的大街,餐厅接踵而至,不少人在拉生意,还有一些街头摆摊的烤鱼和烤肉,价钱便宜。我们却一点都不动心,目标确定,朝着推荐的餐厅而去。

在桥下两边四处寻找,终于找到了ORFOZ餐厅。餐厅里已经有几位Gate-1的成员在吃饭,看来也是在导游推荐下,慕名而来。相对于旁边餐厅的冷清,这里确实比较热闹,人气很旺。

服务生推荐了几款海鲜,还把海鲜拿过来让我们看,可以挑选。我们要了两种烤鱼,我和Nancy,每条鱼分一半,可以品尝两种味道。每盘烤鱼,还陪着薯条、青菜,面包是随便吃。

鱼的分量挺大,我们每人都吃得饱饱的。每条鱼大约70里拉,汇率是1:5.5 左右。


离开餐厅,我们来到桥上观看海湾的夜景。不少人,还在桥上钓鱼,旁边的鱼桶里,收获颇丰。

步行回酒店的路上,遇见伊斯坦布尔最有名的甜品店之一,导游说,只有这一家,没有分店。

店里还有不少人喝茶吃点心。店员介绍了一种28里拉的综合套餐,我们经不起诱惑,每人都尝了一点,有一款开心果点心确实好吃。

走出甜品店,又去逛了超市,发现土耳其果仁软糖种类繁多,看上去就十分诱人。店员让我们品尝,还真不错,可惜我们现在不敢买东西,怕分量太重。不能再吃了,我们赶快走回酒店。外面比想象中安全。不过,晚上最好结伴同行,不要单独行动。

这里流行抽水烟,我拍了一张团友抽水烟的照片。后来,我把照片传给她的时候,她十分高兴和满意。这位团友在纽约的NBC 工作,在后来的行程里,与我们相处得很友好,因为她喜欢拍照,玲帮助她拍了不少照片。回到酒店,洗漱安眠,也许太辛苦,不一会就进入梦乡。

对伊斯坦布尔的最初印象,来自《东方快车谋杀案》,比利时名侦探赫尔克里·波洛搭乘托罗斯快车前往土耳其的伊斯坦布尔,打算从那里转车回欧洲。在车厢中,除了波洛外,只有两位英国旅客,一个是驻印度的英军军官,另一个则是位面容端庄的小姐,这两名乘客似乎非常熟络,互称对方为阿巴思诺特上校和玛丽·德贝纳姆小姐。列车抵达伊斯坦布尔后,波洛渡过博斯普鲁斯海峡,在托卡良旅馆遇到旧友——国际客车公司的董事布克先生。二人在餐厅中共进晚餐。奇怪的是,人们都选在那一夜出行,原本铺位一向宽裕的豪华东方快车竟一票难求。急于返回英国却买不到车票的波洛,在布克先生的帮助下挤上了列车。

这一段一直有伊斯坦布尔作为背景。从土耳其回来后,我又看了新版的《东方快车谋杀案》,有熟悉的背景,觉得有代入感。

下面是我们整个旅行的行程表,给大家一个大概的轮廓,可以了解一下我们具体的行程。

DAY 1, Monday – Depart for Turkey
DAY 2, Tuesday – Arrive in Istanbul
Arrive in Istanbul, at the crossroads of Europe and Asia and transfer to your hotel. Balance of the day is at leisure. Tonight, attend orientation meeting with a Welcome Drink at approximately 7:30 PM with your Tour Manager and fellow travelers. We recommend that you select flights which arrive in Istanbul no later than 4 PM on Day 2 of the itinerary, or earlier if possible
Overnight: IstanbulDAY 3, Wednesday – Istanbul City Tour
Embark on a half day morning tour of Istanbul, the only city that straddles two continents Your tour includes the Rustem Pasha Mosque, a 16th century Ottoman Mosque famous for its large quantities of Iznik tiles, which are set in a very wide variety of floral and geometric designs. Continue to the Hippodrome, the place where chariot races and competitive athletic events took place during the Roman period. You will also visit St. Sophia – the great Byzantine Basilica built in the 6th century, which remained the largest cathedral in the world for almost a thousand years, it was later converted to a mosque and now serves as a museum. Then, onto the lively Spice Market with its unforgettable aromas. Spend the remainder of the day at leisure, exploring this city that blurs the line between East and West, with incredible architecture that is rivaled only by its spectacular natural setting on the Bosphorus Strait. Alternatively, choose to partake in the optional tour to the Topkapi Palace residence of Ottoman Sultans. This evening, join your Tour Manager and fellow travelers for a Welcome Dinner together
Optional: Half Day Istanbul with Topkapi Palace (PM)
Overnight: Istanbul

DAY 4, Thursday – Anzac Cemetery, Drive to CanakkaleThis morning, drive to the town of Gallipoli, site of the famous Ottoman victory against the Allies during World War I. Visit the Anzac Cemetery, a memorial to the casualties of the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps, whose fame grew back home as word of their heroic efforts spread. Afterwards, cross the Dardanelles by ferry and continue to the Canakkale province, located in northwest Turkey, where you will arrive in the early evening
Overnight: Canakkal

DAY 5, Friday – Visit Troy, Pergamum, Drive to Kusadasi
This morning, proceed to the classical city of Troy. Tour this 4000-year-old city and legendary center of the Trojan War, made immortal by Homer’s epic poem The Iliad. Then, drive to Pergamum, a powerful kingdom during the ancient Hellenistic period, and visit the Asclepion, the ancient Roman spa center. Continue to Kusadasi, a city believed to be the birthplace of Homer, where you will arrive in the early evening
Overnight: Kusadas

DAY 6, Saturday – Full Day in Kusadasi
Enjoy a full day at leisure in Kusadasi. Or, join the optional tour to Ancient Ephesus where the Temple of Artemis, one of the “Seven Wonders of the Ancient World,” once stood. Walk along the 2000 year old marble streets; see the Great Theatre, the Odeon, the Fountain of Trajan, Temple of Hadrian, and the Library of Celsus. Visit the peaceful House of the Virgin Mary, believed to be her last residence and the Basilica of St. John. Following the tour, participate in an optional leather factory visit to shop or return to the hotel
Optional: Full Day Ephesus & House of Virgin Mary with Lunch
Overnight: Kusadas

DAY 7, Sunday – Pamukkale Hot Springs, Necropolis, and Hierapolis
Depart Kusadasi and drive to Pamukkale, famous for its mineral-rich hot springs and white terraces. Visit the Necropolis and the ancient city of Hierapolis “Holy City,” a UNESCO a World Heritage Site situated atop the Pamukkale hot springs. The Pamukkale hot springs have served as a therapeutic thermal spa since the 2nd century B.C. Tonight, gather together for dinner
Overnight: Pamukkal

DAY 8, Monday – Travel to Konya
Today, travel from Pamukkale, the “Cotton Castle,” to Konya, a city renowned for its Seljuk architecture and also as the home of the “Whirling Dervishes.” Arrive in the afternoon and visit the Mausoleum of Mevlana with its distinctive fluted dome of turquoise tiles. View works of the 13th century leader Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi, one of the greatest mystical poets of Islam. The Mevlevi Sufi order was founded to follow his teachings
Overnight: Kony

DAY 9, Tuesday – Visit Caravanserai of Sultanhan en route to Cappadocia
Depart for Cappadocia, visiting the magnificent Caravanserai of Sultanhan en route. Afterward, drive to Mustafapasa, which was known as Sinasos during the Ottoman era. The town is a great example of Greek influence in the region. Following lunch, continue to Nevsehir in Cappadocia. Upon arrival in Cappadocia, visit a carpet atelier and have a demonstration of carpet weaving. After, check in to your hotel with free time before dinner. Tonight, attend the optional Whirling Dervish performance; their captivating mystical ritual connects one in infinite spinning to perfect harmony
Optional: Whirling Dervishes Performance (PM)
Overnight: Cappadoci

DAY 10, Wednesday – Morning Sightseeing in Cappadocia
Awake very early to participate in the optional hot air Balloon Ride that takes you soaring over the magnificent Cappadocian landscape with its incredible fairy chimney rock formations — the feeling is both serene and sublime. Then, explore Cappadocia with your group to see Guvercinlik, Uchisar, Pasabag, and the Devrent Valley. Famed for temples and houses cut directly into the region’s spectacular rock formations, Cappadocia has captivated travelers for centuries. Perhaps, opt to join the optional half day tour of Cappadocia that includes the Open-Air Museum in Goreme Valley; see early Christian churches decorated with unique frescoes. Explore the village of Avanos, famous for its beautiful old houses and onyx, and visit a local pottery shop. The tour ends at the fascinating Ozkonak Underground City, built on the northern slopes of Mt. Idis. Return to the hotel with free time before dinner tonight
Optional: Cappadocia Balloon Ride (AM)
Optional: Half Day Cappadocia (PM)
Overnight: Cappadoci

DAY 11, Thursday – Ankara, Mausoleum of Kemal Ataturk
This morning, depart for Ankara, the capital and the second largest city of Turkey. Upon arrival, visit the Mausoleum of Kemal Ataturk, founder and first president of the Turkish Republic. Leading up to the Mausoleum, also known as the Anitkabir, lies a vast brick courtyard and monumental avenue lined with NeoHittite stone statues and cenotaphs beneath its colonnades. The most noted cenotaphs within the complex are those of General Ismet Inonu, a close comrade of Ataturk’s and his successor, and that of Ataturk himself, a large and highly decorative marble cenotaph, beneath which lies his tomb. Continue to the Anatolian Civilizations Museum – built in two Ottoman buildings located near Ankara Castle. The Museum, being among exceptional museums with its unique collection, exhibits Anatolian archaeological artifacts, as well as artifacts from the Paleolithic Age to the present
Overnight: Ankar

DAY 12, Friday – Travel to Istanbul
Depart for Istanbul, arriving in the early afternoon. Leisure time to explore on your own on this last day in Turkey. Perhaps, embark on the optional cruise along the Bosphorus, the winding straits separating Europe and Asia. View humble fishing villages and suspension bridges set against the dramatic outline of the Strait. Afterwards, visit the Grand Bazaar, where bargaining is an art. Tonight, attend a festive Farewell Dinner with your newfound friends and Tour Manager
Optional: Half Day Istanbul Bosphorus Cruise & Grand Bazaar (PM)
Overnight: Istanbu

DAY 13, Saturday – Depart Turkey
Transfer to the airport for your departure fligh

 

(摄影若敏,也感谢Nancy、玲、青、兰的摄影,感谢闺蜜一路相伴)

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