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Nancy生活館 |年年有魚 - 新年之際三款簡易美味的全魚做法 (上)

在美國吃全魚 | Whole Fish Recipes in the US

在美國的前25年,我從沒在家做過全魚。一方面是因為工作忙,沒時間折騰;另一方面是擔心魚腥味留在廚房裡清洗起來太麻煩。

退休後靜下心來,才發現做魚其實沒有那麼複雜。近些年裡逐漸地學習摸索出了幾種簡單又美味的做法,尤其是在新年這樣喜慶的時刻,全魚象徵著團圓和豐盛,更是不可缺少的一道菜。這三種方法健康、美味,適合多種場合,比較實用。

我希望這些食譜能為您的餐桌增添一份亮點,也讓您的家人品嘗到獨特的風味!

In my first 25 years living in the U.S., I never prepared a whole fish at home. Partly because I was too busy with work to deal with the process, and partly because I worried about lingering fishy odors in the kitchen and the hassle of cleaning up.

After retiring, I finally had the time to slow down and realized that cooking fish isn』t as complicated as I thought. Over the years, I』ve gradually learned and experimented with a few simple yet delicious recipes. Especially during celebratory occasions like Chinese New Year, whole fish is an essential dish, symbolizing unity and abundance. These three methods are healthy, flavorful, and versatile for various occasions.

I hope these recipes will add a special touch to your table and allow your family to enjoy unique and delicious flavors!

(一)無油炸豆瓣魚 Steamed Fish with Bean Sauce 

北方長大,極少有活魚可以吃。冬天都是南方來的凍魚,一般都是油炸或者紅燒著吃的。

小時候過年過節時,家裡全魚的做法都是紅燒。在紐約的時候,有一位四川姑娘介紹了幾家四川餐館的豆瓣魚,她很喜歡,我也就認為比較正宗。都是油炸了魚,再在湯汁里燉,澆濃汁。直到2017年我去四川成都學習烹調,才第一次驚奇的發現本地人真實版的豆瓣魚是不用油炸,而是先清蒸再加入很簡單的調味:

Growing up in Northern China, it was rare to have access to live fish. During the winter, the fish available were usually frozen and shipped from the South, and they were typically prepared by deep-frying or braising in heavy sauce.

As a child, during New Year』s and festive occasions, the whole fish on our table was always braised in a rich soy-based sauce. Later, when I lived in New York, a Sichuanese friend introduced me to several restaurants serving Douban Fish, a dish she loved and I assumed to be authentic. These versions involved deep-frying the fish before simmering it in a rich, flavorful sauce.

It wasn』t until 2017, during a cooking class in Chengdu, Sichuan, that I was amazed to discover the authentic home-style Douban Fish recipe. Unlike the restaurant versions, the fish is not deep-fried. Instead, it』s steamed first and then topped with a simple yet flavorful seasoning:

在成都師傅做出來的豆瓣魚。我後來在家複製過很多次,這裡和大家分享。

The Douban Fish prepared by the chef in Chengdu left a lasting impression on me. Since then, I』ve recreated it at home many times. Here, I』m excited to share the recipe with you all!

原料 Ingredients:

  • 鱒魚, 鱈魚或者鱸魚1 條 (1.5 lbs) | 1 whole trout (or bass), about 1.5 lbs
  • 薑片 6 片 | 6 slices ginger (divided)
  • 蒜 4-6 瓣 | 4-6 cloves garlic
  • 蔥 2 根 | 2 scallions (white part for steaming, green for garnish)
  • 紅干辣椒 2 個 | 2 dried red chilies
  • 青辣椒 1 個 (可選) | 1 jalapeño (optional)
  • 泡椒醬 1 tbsp | 1 tbsp pickled peppers
  • 豆豉 1 tbsp (切碎) | 1 tbsp Chinese black beans (chopped)
  • 醬油 2 tbsp | 2 tbsp soy sauce
  • 陳醋 1 tsp | 1 tsp dark vinegar
  • 糖 1 tsp | 1 tsp sugar
  • 鹽 2/3 tsp | 2/3 tsp salt
  • 菜籽油 3 tbsp | 3 tbsp cooking oil

步驟 Directions:

  1. 準備魚

    :在魚身上抹鹽,放上薑片和蔥白段。蒸10分鐘後,將魚轉移到一個乾淨的盤子里。

Prepare the Fish: Rub the fish with salt, top with half the ginger slices and scallion whites. Steam for 10 minutes. Transfer to a clean plate.

  1. 製作醬汁

    :熱油鍋,依次加入泡椒、蔥白、豆豉和剩餘的薑片、蒜瓣和辣椒,翻炒2-3秒。

  2. 然後加入豆醬油、陳醋、糖,鮮椒和半杯水,炒勻。
  3. 醬汁煮開後,立刻淋在蒸好的魚上。趁熱享用!

Prepare the Sauce: Heat oil, stir-fry pickled pepper, scallion greens, remaining ginger, garlic, and chilies for 2-3 seconds. Add black beans, soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, and ½ cup water. Once boiling, pour over the steamed fish. Serve hot!

如果是幾條小一點的魚也可以這樣做,只是蒸魚的時間要調短一點。

注意鹹淡和辣的程度都可以根據自己的口味調整。豆豉炒了之後非常香!

If you』re using smaller fish, this method works just as well—just shorten the steaming time accordingly.

Be sure to adjust the saltiness and spiciness to your taste. The black beans become incredibly fragrant after stir-frying!

() 酒釀蒸魚 | 江南吃法 Fish with Fermented Rice Wine

我想起這食譜的時候正好有幾條漂亮的鱒魚。這個食譜適合黃花魚,鱸魚,需要肉質細嫩的魚比較好。鮮亮的魚,要保證原味和鮮嫩的口感,就要少放一些調味料。

When I thought of this flavor, I happened to have a few beautiful golden trout. This recipe also works well with yellow croaker, sea bass, or any fish with tender, delicate flesh. For fresh and vibrant fish, it's important to use fewer seasonings to preserve their natural flavor and tender texture.

原料 Ingredients:

  • 鱒魚, 鱈魚,黃花魚1 條 (1.5 lbs) 1 trout (or yellow croaker,bass)
  • 酒釀 1 小杯 | 1 small cup fermented wine rice
  • 糖 1 tsp | 1 tsp sugar
  • 紹興酒 1 tbsp | 1 tbsp Shaoxing wine
  • 鹽 ½ tsp | ½ tsp salt
  • 枸杞、胡蘿蔔片 (裝飾) | Goji berries, carrot slices ( garnish also add sweetness)

 

小時候在南方吃過酒釀味道的魚,看到這魚的時候馬上就覺得酒釀會很適合這個魚。這裡是我自己實驗的結果

When I was a child traveled  in the Southern China, I had eaten fish cooked with fermented rice wine, and seeing this fish immediately made me think that fermented rice wine would pair perfectly with it. Here is the result of my own experiment.

步驟 Directions:

  • 混合調料:將酒釀、糖和紹興酒混合均勻。魚身撒鹽,並在魚肚內放入薑片。用枸杞和胡蘿蔔片裝飾,把酒釀的米也放上一起蒸。

Mix fermented rice, sugar, and Shaoxing wine. Sprinkle salt on the fish and stuff ginger slices inside. Garnish with goji berries and carrot slices rice inside the rice wine to steam together.

放入蒸汽烤箱蒸8分鐘,出來正好。Steam it in a steam oven for 8 minutes, and it comes out perfectly.

  • 蒸魚:將魚蒸7-8分鐘後取出,裝盤。將多餘的酒釀汁淋在魚上,趁熱享用。

Steam for 7-8 minutes. Serve warm with the extra wine sauce poured over.

我用的鱒魚魚肉特別嫩。一根主要的骨頭剔掉,就沒有別的骨頭了。

The trout I used had exceptionally tender meat. Once the main bone was removed, there were no other bones left.

魚肉和酒釀拌在一起吃的非常幸福!這樣鮮嫩的魚配酒釀實在是太完美了!第一勺魚和酒釀一起吃下實在是滿心自豪的美!

The combination of fish and fermented rice is pure bliss! The tender fish paired with the fermented rice is truly perfect! Taking the first bite of fish with the fermented rice fills me with a deep sense of pride and joy!

食譜 () 檸檬酸豆蒸/烤魚|義大利吃法

將在續篇分享

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金家小姑奶奶

小姑奶奶,北京的堂兄就這樣叫我。雖然他已逝去多年, 但這稱呼喚起我對童年,對父親的哥哥們,嫂子們,我的遠方的堂哥堂姐們的思念。父親是他那輩里最小的一位。和哥哥們很親。 按當時的文化,他是絕對晚婚了。有我的時候,堂哥堂姐們早已都十多二十多歲了。雖然家裡傳統規矩很嚴,然而對我這個最後出現的姑奶奶,似乎一切都是新時代的,包括家裡的規矩。非常慶幸因為最小而得到的少限制的自由。也許是從小的自由放樅,帶給了我無邊的追夢的想像力......金,父親的本姓,也在文革期間被迫放棄。金家小姑奶奶,是真實的,原版的,那個在新街口的衚衕里最愛吃有嚼頭的北京蛋卷的小影子。

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